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For most woodturners shopping Rikon in 2026, the answer is straightforward: the Rikon 70-220VSR midi lathe is the best all-around pick for its 1 HP motor, 12.5-inch swing, and true variable-speed dial, while the Rikon 70-105 mini lathe is the smarter buy if you only turn pens, bowls under 10 inches, and spindle work on a tight budget or tight bench.
Both share Rikon’s cast-iron construction philosophy and a 5-year warranty, but they solve different problems. Below, the head-to-head numbers, then which lathe fits which shop.
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Rikon Mini vs. Midi: Spec Comparison
| Spec | Rikon 70-105 (Mini) | Rikon 70-220VSR (Midi) |
|---|---|---|
| Swing over bed | 10 in | 12.5 in |
| Distance between centers | 18 in | 20 in |
| Motor | 1/2 HP, 120V | 1 HP, 120V |
| Speed control | 5-step belt/pulley | Electronic variable speed |
| Speed range | 430–3,900 RPM (steps) | 250–3,850 RPM (three variable ranges) |
| Spindle thread | 1 in × 8 TPI | 1 in × 8 TPI |
| Morse taper | #2 headstock / #2 tailstock | #2 headstock / #2 tailstock |
| Weight | ~78 lbs | ~121 lbs |
| Typical price range | $300–$400 | $600–$750 |
The two numbers that matter most in practice are motor horsepower and speed control. The 70-220VSR’s 1 HP motor lets you rough out an unbalanced 10-inch blank at low RPM without stalling—something the 70-105’s half-horse motor struggles with on anything larger than a spindle. And electronic variable speed means you dial down RPM while cutting rather than stopping to move a belt, which on the 70-105 is the single biggest workflow annoyance owners report.
What the Speed Ranges Actually Mean
The 70-220VSR offers three belt-position ranges (roughly 250–750, 550–1,650, and 1,200–3,850 RPM), each fully variable within its range. The practical benefit: you rough a warped bowl blank at 300 RPM, flip one belt position for shaping, and finish at high speed for sanding—all without the belt changes consuming your turning session.
On the 70-105, each of the five fixed speeds requires opening the cover and moving the belt. Its lowest speed is ~430 RPM, which is fast for starting an unbalanced 8-inch bowl blank. That alone pushes bowl turners toward the midi.
Which One for Your Situation
| Your situation | Recommended | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Pen turning and small ornaments only | 70-105 | Plenty of power; variable speed unnecessary at small diameters |
| Bowls up to 12 in + occasional spindles | 70-220VSR | 1 HP won’t stall mid-cut; 250 RPM low end for roughing |
| Budget under $400 total | 70-105 | Leaves room for a chuck and tools in the same budget |
| Beginner, unsure if turning sticks | 70-105 | Lower entry cost; holds resale value reasonably well |
| Shared garage, need to move the lathe | 70-105 | 78 lbs vs. 121 lbs—solo movable vs. two-person job |
| Daily or heavy use, bowls and platters | 70-220VSR | Motor headroom and cast-iron mass reduce vibration |
| Spindles longer than 20 in (table legs) | Neither—look at full-size lathes | Both max out around 20 in between centers without a bed extension |
Included Accessories: What Actually Saves Money
Both lathes ship with a faceplate, spur center, live center, tool rest, and knock-out bar. The differences that matter at checkout:
- Both use 1″ × 8 TPI spindles and #2 MT. This is the industry standard, so aftermarket chucks, jaws, and centers fit either machine. You’re never locked into proprietary accessories.
- The 70-220VSR includes a 6-inch tool rest plus a longer rest in some retail bundles—check the listing, since the long rest alone runs $30–$50 aftermarket.
- Neither includes a chuck. Budget $150–$250 for a four-jaw scroll chuck regardless of which lathe you buy—it’s effectively a required purchase for bowl work. Factor this into the total: the 70-105 plus chuck often costs about the same as the bare 70-220VSR.
- Bed extensions exist for both lines (the 70-105 accepts an extension bringing capacity toward 40 inches between centers), so spindle length isn’t permanently capped.
The honest math: if bowl turning is your goal, the 70-105’s sticker savings evaporate once you add the chuck—and you’re still left wanting the midi’s motor and low-end speed.
Ownership Realities
- What wears first: the drive belt and the spur center’s teeth. Belts are cheap consumables; keep a spare. Live centers eventually develop bearing play after heavy use—an inexpensive replacement.
- Bench mounting matters more than the lathe. The 70-105 especially benefits from being bolted to a heavy bench or dedicated stand; at 78 lbs it walks under vibration on a lightweight workbench. Rikon sells a matching stand for the midi that’s worth it.
- Common mistake: running the 70-105 too fast on rough blanks because its lowest speed is 430 RPM. Always spin the blank by hand first to check clearance and balance.
- Cleaning: dust packs into the headstock pulley cover and tailstock quill. Blow it out after each session; packed dust accelerates belt wear and tailstock binding.
Bottom Line
Buy the 70-105 if you’re a pen turner, a budget-limited beginner, or working in a space where 78 lbs matters. Buy the 70-220VSR if bowls are in your future—the extra horsepower, 12.5-inch swing, and 250 RPM low end are the difference between a lathe you grow out of in a year and one that stays in the shop for a decade.
FAQ
Can the Rikon 70-105 turn bowls?
Yes, up to about 9–10 inches, but the 1/2 HP motor and 430 RPM minimum speed make it slow-going and demanding of sharp tools and light cuts. It’s fine for occasional small bowls, not as a dedicated bowl lathe.
Do I need a chuck right away?
For spindle work, no—the included spur center and live center cover it. For bowls and faceplate work beyond the included faceplate, yes—budget for a four-jaw scroll chuck from the start.
Is variable speed worth the price jump?
For bowls, absolutely—roughing safely at 250–400 RPM is a real safety and workflow advantage, not a luxury. For pens and spindles turned at high speed, it’s a convenience rather than a necessity.
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