Priming and painting wood for a smooth, durable painted finish.
Chalk-style paint and cabinet enamel can both give old wood furniture a convincing new finish, but they are not interchangeable. Chalk-style paint is forgiving, fast, and useful when you want a distressed or low-sheen look. Cabinet enamel takes more preparation and patience, but it makes the harder, smoother film for Read more
The short answer For most interior woodwork, acrylic paint is the practical default. It dries quickly, cleans up with water, stays flexible as wood moves, and resists yellowing better than traditional alkyd paint. It is usually the better choice for baseboards, door casings, window trim, and built-ins in ordinary rooms. Read more
Choosing between oil-based and water-based paint for wood trim comes down to the condition of the wood, the look you want, and how much time you have for preparation and drying. Oil paint is still useful for hard-wearing trim and difficult surfaces, but modern water-based acrylic and acrylic-alkyd paints are Read more
Why degrease wood before primer? Grease, wax, polish, hand oils and oily residue can keep primer from wetting the surface or bonding evenly. The warning signs include fisheyes—small round craters where the coating pulls away—patchy coverage, and primer that peels when scratched or sanded. Cleaning is especially important on kitchen Read more
A two-part enamel system combines a base coat with a chemical hardener. Once mixed, the coating cures into a tougher film than ordinary one-part enamel. It can be useful on cabinets, doors, trim, and furniture that get frequent handling, but it is less forgiving: the mix has a limited working Read more
Spray painting wood cabinets can produce a smooth, even finish, but the result depends more on preparation and paint choice than on the sprayer itself. The steps below cover both bare wood and previously finished cabinets, including how to avoid drips, rough patches, and paint that peels around handles. Choose Read more
End grain absorbs paint differently from the face and edge grain of a board. Its exposed fibers act like a bundle of tiny straws, pulling primer into the wood and often leaving a dull, rough, or uneven patch. The problem is most noticeable on plywood edges, cut ends of solid Read more
MDF edges absorb paint much faster than the faces. The exposed fibers swell and drink in the first coat, leaving a rough, dull edge even when the broad surfaces look smooth. The fix is to seal the edge before applying your finish coats. With the right preparation and a little Read more
Bare wood needs a compatible primer before enamel paint. Primer helps the finish stick, evens out absorption, and reduces stains or wood extractives bleeding through. The right choice depends on the wood, the enamel, and whether the work is indoors or outside. A careful sanding and a thin, even primer Read more
Paint sheen is the amount of light a dried coating reflects. On interior woodwork, sheen affects more than appearance: it changes how visible sanding defects are, how easily fingerprints clean off, and how well the finish stands up to handling. The best choice depends on whether you are painting baseboards, Read more