Best Hand Saws: Types, Teeth and How to Choose

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.

The Short Answer

If you can own only two hand saws, make them a fine-toothed joinery saw for accurate cuts in small stock and a general-purpose panel saw for breaking down boards and plywood. A pull saw, which cuts on the pull stroke with a very thin blade, is the easiest style for most beginners to start accurate cuts with. A traditional push saw has a thicker blade and rewards a practiced stroke. Whichever you choose, the best hand saw is the one with a straight blade, teeth that suit the wood and the direction of your cut, a handle that fits your grip, and an edge that stays cleanly cutting. Buy for the work you do, not for the length of the product list.

Contents

• Types of hand saws
• Understanding teeth: rip, crosscut and tooth count
• Western push saws versus Japanese pull saws
• How to choose a hand saw
• Matching the saw to the job
• Sawing technique
• Safety
• Care, sharpening and storage
• Common mistakes
• Who should choose what
• Checklist
• FAQ
• Conclusion

Types of Hand Saws

Hand saws are grouped by the job they do. Buying one saw that is meant to do everything usually means it does nothing especially well, so it helps to know the families.

Panel and handsaws

These are the long saws, usually with a blade somewhere between about 20 and 26 inches. They cut boards to length and rip them along the grain. A crosscut panel saw is the usual first choice for building furniture from sawn lumber. They are also the saws most associated with carpentry on a job site.

Backsaws: tenon, dovetail and carcass saws

A backsaw has a rigid spine of steel or brass along the top edge that keeps a thin blade straight. This lets the blade be thin and fine-toothed and still cut accurately. A dovetail saw is the smallest and finest, a carcass saw is a little larger, and a tenon saw is larger still for cutting the cheeks of tenons and wide shoulders. The deeper the cut, the less the spine allows, which is why the blade depth varies between saws.

Japanese pull saws

Pull saws cut on the pull stroke, which keeps the blade under tension. That means the steel can be very thin, giving a narrow kerf and little effort. Common forms include a ryoba, which has rip teeth on one edge and crosscut teeth on the other, a dozuki, which has a stiffening spine for fine joinery, and a kataba, which has teeth on one side and no spine. Many pull saws have replaceable blades, since the hardened teeth are difficult to resharpen at home.

Coping and fret saws

A coping saw has a thin blade held in a frame and is used for cutting curves and for removing waste in dovetails and for fitting molding joints. A fret saw has a deeper frame for intricate scrollwork. Blades are inexpensive and snap easily, so keep spares.

Comparison of hand saw types

Understanding Teeth: Rip, Crosscut and Tooth Count

The teeth are what the saw actually does, and the shape matters more than the badge on the blade.

Rip teeth

Rip teeth are filed square across, so each tooth acts like a tiny chisel that chops through fibers lying along the grain. They cut quickly in the direction of the grain and leave a rougher face. Use them when you are splitting a board lengthwise.

Crosscut teeth

Crosscut teeth have bevels filed on their faces so each tooth acts like a tiny knife, severing fibers across the grain. They leave a cleaner edge but cut more slowly if used along the grain. Crosscut is the usual choice for squaring ends.

Tooth count and set

Tooth count is usually described as teeth per inch (TPI) or points per inch. A coarse saw with fewer teeth removes wood quickly but leaves a rougher surface. A fine saw with more teeth cuts more slowly and cleanly. For general carpentry a moderate count is common, while joinery saws use finer counts. The set is the amount the teeth are bent outward alternately, and it gives the kerf clearance so the blade does not bind. Heavier set suits green or wet wood, while lighter set suits dry hardwood and precise work. When a manufacturer lists TPI, compare it only with saws of the same style, because the way it is measured can differ between rip and crosscut patterns and between Western and Japanese makers.

Western Push Saws Versus Japanese Pull Saws

This is the choice that confuses beginners most, and neither is better in every circumstance.

Push saws are strong and stiff because the blade is under compression on the cutting stroke. The blade must be thick enough or supported by a spine to stop it from buckling. The result is a wider kerf and a bit more effort, but the saw tolerates heavy handling and can be resharpened at home with a file.

Pull saws put the blade in tension, so it stays straight even when very thin. That gives a narrow kerf, less material removed and a light cutting feel. Because the blade is thin and often hardened, however, it can kink if twisted and is not usually resharpened by hand. Most people replace the blade when it dulls.

If you like the idea of very low effort and quick learning, start with a pull saw for joinery. If you prefer repairable tools or cut a lot of thick stock, a push saw with a traditional handle suits you. Many shops use both.

Comparison of saw styles

How to Choose a Hand Saw

Begin with the task. Joinery needs a fine tooth count and a stiff, straight blade. Breaking down boards wants a longer blade with coarser teeth. Trimming plugs wants a flexible, flat-ground blade. Write down the cuts you make most before you shop.

Check the blade. Sight along it for straightness, and look at the surface for consistent finish. A spine, if there is one, should be tight against the blade for its full length. For pull saws, check whether replacement blades are available, since they are a recurring cost.

Handle comfort deserves more attention than it gets. You grip the handle for long cuts, so the shape and the size of the hole should suit your hand. A handle that is too small makes you squeeze, which tires you and wanders the cut.

Finally, look at replacement and sharpening options. A saw you can maintain or re-blade keeps working for years. Skipping this question is the most common reason an inexpensive saw ends up in a drawer.

Matching the Saw to the Job

• Cutting boards to length: a crosscut panel saw or a ryoba with the crosscut edge.
• Ripping boards: a rip-tooth panel saw, or the rip edge of a ryoba for shorter cuts.
• Dovetails: a dovetail saw or a fine dozuki. Follow with a chisel to clean the corners.
• Tenon cheeks and shoulders: a tenon or carcass saw, with enough depth to reach the shoulder line.
• Curves and waste removal: a coping saw.
• Plywood and veneered boards: a fine crosscut saw with light pressure. Support the sheet close to the cut to reduce splintering, and score the line with a knife where tear-out is a concern.

Sawing Technique

Mark and start the cut

Mark with a knife for crisp lines and make a small notch with the saw on the waste side so the blade has somewhere to sit. For push saws, use your thumb as a gentle guide at the heel of the blade and take a few light pull strokes in reverse to start the groove. With pull saws, a light pull stroke at a low angle starts a groove cleanly.

Position your body

Stand so that your forearm, the saw and your cutting line are in one straight plane. Your dominant eye should sit above the line. Twisting your shoulder or elbow sideways is the quickest way to cause a wandering cut.

Use the whole blade

Long, light strokes use the entire length of the teeth, keeping them cooler and sharper for longer. Short, forceful strokes wear one patch of the blade and tire your arm. Let the saw do the cutting, and apply only gentle downward pressure.

Safety

Hand saws are less dangerous than power saws, but they still produce serious cuts, especially when a blade skips out of the kerf or a hand sits in the way.

• Clamp the work or hold it in a vise. Do not hold a small piece in one hand and saw toward that hand.
• Keep your free hand clear of the line of cut and behind the blade. Use a push stick or a clamp where practical.
• Cut away from your body whenever you can, and never saw toward your own legs when the workpiece is on your knee or the floor.
• Start cuts with light, controlled strokes so the blade does not jump.
• Wear safety glasses. Fine dust and snapped blade fragments, particularly from coping saws, can reach the eye.
• Wear a dust mask when cutting large amounts of dusty material, since fine wood dust is an irritant and some species cause allergic reactions.
• Consider cut-resistant gloves on the holding hand for rough work, though they do not replace good workholding, and they should never be worn near moving power equipment.
• Cover teeth with a guard or sheath when the saw is not in use, and hang or lay saws where the teeth cannot catch a passing hand.
• Replace snapped coping saw and pull saw blades following the manufacturer’s directions, and handle new blades by the back or with a cloth, because teeth are sharp.

Care, Sharpening and Storage

Keep the blade clean and dry

Wipe the blade after use, especially after cutting resinous or damp wood. Resin makes a saw drag and heat. A little solvent suitable for tools and a rag removes it. Rub a light coating of wax or oil over the plate to guard against rust, and avoid leaving saws in a damp garage.

Resharpening push saws

Western saws can be sharpened with saw files of the correct size, a saw vise to hold the plate, and some practice. Jointing the teeth to a common height, filing each to a consistent shape, and then setting them is a skill that takes time to learn. Many woodworkers send saws out for professional sharpening, which is a good option while you learn. Because the file sizes and angles depend on the tooth pattern, follow a trustworthy guide for your specific saw.

Common Mistakes

• Buying only on price or set size. A set of multiple low-quality saws often produces worse results than one good joinery saw.
• Using the wrong teeth. Ripping with a fine crosscut saw is slow and clogs the gullets. Crosscutting with a rip saw tears the edge.
• Pushing too hard. Pressure binds the blade and wanders the cut. If you have to force the saw, it needs sharpening or the teeth are wrong.
• Cutting on the wrong side of the line. Always saw on the waste side and leave the line itself.
• Poor workholding. A wobbling workpiece makes an accurate cut impossible and increases injury risk.
• Using the saw on nails or dirty wood. Hidden metal and grit destroy teeth. Keep a cheap saw for reclaimed lumber.

Who Should Choose What

Beginners

Start with a fine-tooth Japanese pull saw, since it makes accurate cuts forgiving, along with a general crosscut panel saw or a ryoba. Add a coping saw if you plan to cut dovetails or curves.

Furniture makers and hobbyists

A dovetail saw, a tenon or carcass saw and a panel saw, with a coping saw for waste removal, handle most joinery. Choose handles that suit your grip, and learn to maintain at least one traditional saw.

Carpenters and renovators

Choose tough panel saws with hardened teeth that tolerate occasional abuse. Keep a pruning or jab saw for rough work and a flush-cut saw for trim.

Hand Saw Buying Checklist

• List the cuts you make most often before choosing.
• Pick a joinery saw with fine teeth for accuracy and a longer saw for breaking down boards.
• Decide between push and pull styles based on your comfort with each and your willingness to resharpen.
• Match the teeth to the cut: rip along the grain, crosscut across it.
• Sight along the blade to check for straightness.
• Hold the handle to confirm it fits your grip.
• Check that replacement blades or sharpening services exist.
• Buy a blade guard or plan a safe storage method.
• Get safety glasses and a dust mask for regular sawing.
• Clamp the work and mark with a knife.
• Wipe, oil lightly and cover the teeth after each session.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best hand saw for a beginner?

A fine-toothed Japanese-style pull saw with a replaceable blade is often the easiest to learn, since it self-tensions and cuts with little effort. A basic crosscut panel saw is also useful for cutting boards to length.

Do I need both a rip saw and a crosscut saw?

Not necessarily. A ryoba or a hybrid-tooth saw can cover both jobs reasonably. If you rip a great deal of thick stock by hand, a dedicated rip saw saves effort. If you mostly buy dimensioned lumber, you will do more crosscutting than ripping.

How many teeth per inch should I look for?

Finer counts suit joinery and thin stock, while coarser counts suit quick cuts in thick lumber. There is no single ideal figure, so follow the maker’s description of the saw’s intended use and compare saws of the same type.

Can I sharpen a Japanese pull saw?

Most are not designed to be resharpened by hand because the teeth are very hard. Replacing the blade is the standard practice. Professional sharpening exists for some traditional saws.

Why does my saw cut crooked?

The common causes are poor body alignment, too much pressure, uneven tooth set, a bent blade or a dull saw. Check your stance, lighten your grip and examine the blade for straightness before blaming the saw.

Is a hand saw better than a power saw for small projects?

It depends on your priorities. Hand saws are quiet, produce little dust, give precise control and need no power. Power saws are faster for repeated and heavy cuts. Many woodworkers use both for different stages.

How do I stop tear-out when sawing plywood?

Use a fine crosscut saw at a low angle, support the sheet close to the cut, and score the line with a knife first. Keep the blade sharp, since a dull saw tears the surface fibers.

How should I store hand saws?

Keep them dry, with teeth covered or hung so they do not touch other tools. A wall rack with a guard, a slotted board or a roll all work. Avoid humid spaces, and wipe the blade lightly with wax or oil to prevent rust.

Conclusion

The best hand saws are the ones matched to your cuts: fine and rigid for joinery, long and coarser for breaking down boards, thin and flexible for flush trimming. A small group of well-chosen saws, kept clean and sharp, will serve you better than a large collection used carelessly. Learn the stance, start cuts gently and clamp your work, and the tool will feel easy.

When you are ready to shop, compare a Japanese-style pull saw for accurate joinery, a dovetail or tenon saw for furniture, a general crosscut panel saw, and a coping saw with spare blades. Read each listing for tooth pattern, blade length and replacement options before you decide.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, rpwoodworks.com earns from qualifying purchases. This comes at no extra cost to you.